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Installing a BEX Kit

Several people have written to me wanting me to write an article about installing a BEX kit in their C-Head for use at home, RV, travel trailer or houseboat. Here is a step by step plan for doing that. Keep in mind that all installations tend to have special issues that must be overcome on a case by case basis. If you do have an issue that you cannot resolve, please contact us for help.

A typical RV, travel trailer or houseboat installation will involve an existing toilet, usually a Dometic or Thetford brand that must be removed. They are normally anchored in place exactly like a residential toilet, that is, two bolts on either side with a nut holding the toilet down.

Before undoing the nuts, first shut off the water and disconnect the water supply hose from the toilet. With RVs, travel trailers and houseboats, the owner may want to equip this water line with a sprayer nozzle and used to rinse out the urine funnel after using the toilet although that is not normally necessary. After disconnecting the water supply line, flush the toilet to remove as much residual water as possible. Now remove the nuts and lift the toilet off of the floor and away from the work area. You may want to keep it for future use should a buyer want a regular flush system.

Clean the area around the toilet flange. Remove the rubber gasket and the wax ring and wipe down the flange as it will be exposed to the inside of the toilet. If the tank is producing a bad odor, tape off the opening of the flange temporarily while your project is in progress.

Remove the housing lid by removing the six screws from the front portion of the hinges (three on each side). Lift the housing lid off and place it someplace safe. Be careful to protect the funnel hanging down under the lid. Remove the contents of the toilet and remove the rubber pads from the bottom of the toilet.

Place the housing down on a piece of cardboard or heavy brown paper and mark the base footprint. Cut the cardboard out using a box knife. Now set the cardboard footprint over the flange to where you want the toilet to be anchored. Press it down until the bolts come through the cardboard marking the location of the flange. If it is not exactly where you want it to be, move it, tearing the holes in the cardboard as necessary. When located exactly where you want it, take a straight edge and draw a ling across from bolt to bolt to indicate the location of the flange.

Before removing the cardboard, mark the side facing up with the words “UPSIDE”. Find the center of the lines and then make a compass using a piece of cardboard and a nail and a pencil or pen. Draw and the cut out the circle making it large enough to go over the flange with about a 1/4-inch gap on each side.

Set the toilet housing upside down and place the cardboard template on it with the UPSIDE facing down. Mark the location of the hole on the bottom of the housing and then cut it out using a drill to make a pilot hole and then a sabre saw to make the cut. If you have the tools and want to get fancy, round over the inside edge of the hole with a router. At this point, if you are going to anchor the toilet by bolting it down to the pedestal, drill a 3/16-inch hole in each of the six corners exactly 1-inch in from the edge. Now, set the toilet housing over the flange and anchor the toilet to the pedestal using a 1-inch #10 stainless steel lag screw with a 1-inch stainless steel fender washer for each hole. Tighten until snug. Do not over tighten.

Now determine if the toilet flange is a 3 or 4 inch diameter flange and whether it goes straight down of if it is angled off 45 degrees. Take the flange plug and try to insert it into the flange. Set it against the protruding bolts and tap the anchor bar on the plug with a hammer to indent and mark the underside of the bar. Turn the bar over and cut 1/2″ holes through the bar at the indentations so that the bar will slide down over the bolts and the plug seat inside the flange hole.

Cut the foam plug down in diameter with a serrated kitchen knife until it fits easily but snugly into the hole. In some cases, you may need to add to the plug to increase the diameter.

Before affixing the plug to the flange, attach the p-trap to the bottom side by pressing it in place and fixing it with either PVC cement or else a #6 screw. Be careful not to drop it inside the tank.

Use the elbow instead of the straight coupling if the hole angles off 45 degrees. If it angles off, be sure that the angle is pointed in the direction of the bend so that the anchor bar of the plug is running side to side when attached inside the toilet housing.

Insert the plug in the flange hole and anchor it in place using the original toilet anchor nuts along with a fender washer that will fit over the flange bolts. Now screw the four screws at the ends of the plug anchor bar into the bottom of the housing, tying everything together. At this point the toilet housing is anchored to the pedestal, the plug is anchored to the flange and the bottom of the toilet housing.

Now take the flexible hose with the elbows on the ends and add a straight coupling to one end. Press the flexible hose onto the EUD using the coupling and then the other end onto the nipple on the top of the flange plug. Set the platform piece in place in the bottom of the toilet and return the bucket and urine container inside the toilet. Set the housing lid assembly in place dropping it over the churn stub and then screw it back in place by reinstalling the six screws to the hinges. This completes the installation of the BEX kit. You can fill the collection bucket with medium and the toilet is ready to use.

Please feel free to ask questions or make comments below.

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